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You’re about to learn about one of the most important factors in poker. Board texture is one of the most important pieces of information in any given hand. The optimal bet sizing, bet frequency, and overall postflop strategy hinges on the specific three cards that come on the flop. In Texas hold 'em, and other community card poker games, a card appearing on the board that causes significant betting action because it helps two or more players. Action only In many cardrooms, with respect to an all-in bet, only a full (or half) bet can be reraised.
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RULES OF Poker
Hold 'em is normally played using small and big blind bets – forced bets by two players. Antes (forced contributions by all players) may be used in addition to blinds, particularly in later stages of tournament play. A dealer button is used to represent the player in the dealer position; the dealer button rotates clockwise after each hand, changing the position of the dealer and blinds. The small blind is posted by the player to the left of the dealer and is usually equal to half of the big blind. The big blind, posted by the player to the left of the small blind, is equal to the minimum bet. In tournament poker, the blind/ante structure periodically increases as the tournament progresses. (In some cases, the small blind is some other fraction of a small bet; e.g., $10 is a common small blind when the big blind is $15, and still other tables may use two equal blinds. The double-blind structure described above is a commonly used and more recent adoption.) When only two players remain, special 'head-to-head' or 'heads up' rules are enforced and the blinds are posted differently. In this case, the person with the dealer button posts the small blind, while his/her opponent places the big blind. The dealer acts first before the flop. After the flop, the dealer acts last and continues to do so for the remainder of the hand. The three most common variations of hold 'em are limit hold 'em, no-limit hold 'em and pot-limit hold 'em. Limit hold 'em has historically been the most popular form of hold 'em found in casino live action games in the United States. In limit hold 'em, bets and raises during the first two rounds of betting (pre-flop and flop) must be equal to the big blind; this amount is called the small bet. In the next two rounds of betting (turn and river), bets and raises must be equal to twice the big blind; this amount is called the big bet. No-limit hold 'em is the form most commonly found in televised tournament poker and is the game played in the main event of the World Series of Poker. In no-limit hold 'em, players may bet or raise any amount over the minimum raise up to all of the chips the player has at the table (called an all-in bet). The minimum raise is equal to the size of the previous bet or raise. If someone wishes to re-raise, they must raise at least the amount of the previous raise. For example, if the big blind is $2 and there is a raise of $6 to a total of $8, a re-raise must be at least $6 more for a total of $14. If a raise or re-raise is all-in and does not equal the size of the previous raise, the initial raiser cannot re-raise again. This only matters of course if there were a call before the re-raise. In pot-limit hold 'em, the maximum raise is the current size of the pot (including the amount needed to call). Most casinos that offer hold 'em also allow the player to the left of the big blind to post an optional live straddle, usually double the amount of the big blind, which then acts as the big blind. No-limit games may also allow multiple re-straddles, in any amount that would be a legal raise.
Play of the hand
Play begins with each player being dealt two cards face down, with the player in the small blind receiving the first card and the player in the button seat receiving the last card dealt. (As in most poker games, the deck is a standard 52-card deck containing no jokers.) These cards are the player's hole or pocket cards. These are the only cards each player will receive individually, and they will only (possibly) be revealed at the showdown, making Texas hold 'em a closed poker game. The hand begins with a 'pre-flop' betting round, beginning with the player to the left of the big blind (or the player to the left of the dealer, if no blinds are used) and continuing clockwise. A round of betting continues until every player has folded, put in all of their chips, or matched the amount put in by all other active players. See betting for a detailed account. Note that the blinds are considered 'live' in the pre-flop betting round, meaning that they are counted toward the amount that the blind player must contribute. If all players call around to the player in the big blind position, that player may either check or raise. After the pre-flop betting round, assuming there remain at least two players taking part in the hand, the dealer deals a flop, three face-up community cards. The flop is followed by a second betting round. This and all subsequent betting rounds begin with the player to the dealer's left and continue clockwise. After the flop betting round ends, a single community card (called the turn or fourth street) is dealt, followed by a third betting round. A final single community card (called the river or fifth street) is then dealt, followed by a fourth betting round and the showdown, if necessary. In all casinos, the dealer will burn a card before the flop, turn, and river. Because of this burn, players who are betting cannot see the back of the next community card to come. This is done for historical/traditional reasons, to avoid any possibility of a player knowing in advance the next card to be dealt due to it being marked
The showdown
If a player bets and all other players fold, then the remaining player is awarded the pot and is not required to show his hole cards. If two or more players remain after the final betting round, a showdown occurs. On the showdown, each player plays the best poker hand they can make from the seven cards comprising his two hole cards and the five community cards. A player may use both of his own two hole cards, only one, or none at all, to form his final five-card hand. If the five community cards form the player's best hand, then the player is said to be playing the board and can only hope to split the pot, because each other player can also use the same five cards to construct the same hand. If the best hand is shared by more than one player, then the pot is split equally among them, with any extra chips going to the first players after the button in clockwise order. It is common for players to have closely valued, but not identically ranked hands. Nevertheless, one must be careful in determining the best hand; if the hand involves fewer than five cards, (such as two pair or three of a kind), then kickers are used to settle ties (see the second example below). Note that the card's numerical rank is of sole importance; suit values are irrelevant in Hold'em. The last player to bet is the first player to show his hand.
Misdeal
If the first card dealt is exposed, then this is considered a misdeal. The dealer then retrieves the card, reshuffles the deck, and again cuts the cards. However, if any other hole card is exposed due to a dealer error, the deal continues as usual. After completing the deal, the dealer replaces the exposed card with the top card on the deck, and the exposed card is then used as the burn card. If more than one hole card is exposed, a misdeal is declared by the dealer and the hand is dealt again from the beginning. A misdeal is also declared if a player receives more than two hole cards by mistake (e.g. two cards stuck together).
Poker is a game of incomplete information. We fixate about the ranges, patterns, metagame. We're obsessed with finding out what's hidden to our eyes. Unfortunately, with that attitude, it's very easy to forget about the basics and miss something obvious, hidden in plain sight... like the board texture.
Community cards often get much less attention than they actually deserve and in turn provide us with less information than they potentially could. In this article, we're going back to basics to try to answer the seemingly simple question:
How to read board texture?'
Types of Board Textures
First things first. As soon as community cards hit the board it's important to realize what kind of texture we're working with:
- Rainbow Board. Example: Kh7c2d. This one is a classic. With no flush draws possible both players lose a considerable chunk of feasible hands for both getting aggressive or calling a bet with. While playing those kinds of boards can get tricky at high levels of play they are usually synonymous with the good old 'cbet and fold' play sequence.
- Two Tone Board. Example: 9s7s3c. Those boards are much more tricky to play since the possible calling ranges are usually much wider than on rainbow boards. Also, the likelihood of a potential cbet getting raised or check/raised is considerably higher.
- Monotone Board. Example AsKs8s. On this kind of board texture, the relative strength of the most popular holdings like the top and second pair type hands (or even two pairs and sets) goes down considerably. Also, drawing to a high flush is not as profitable since even if we manage to hit it our hand will be fairly obvious to figure out.
- Paired Board. Example JhJd6c. Similarly to the rainbow board, possible ranges for aggression and continuing in the hand get really narrow so there's not a lot of play to those kinds of boards especially against ABC players who will quickly let you know if they got a piece of the flop or not.
Board Texture and Implied Odds
Board texture can be very important when considering our implied odds. It's very hard to get paid off on a Kh7h2h4h5d board when we're holding AhQh (since the board is blocking the second nuts, discouraging medium strength hands from a thin call and making the flush as likely as it can ever be).
It's however much easier on a 9c8c7h3h2h since it's more difficult for our opponent to put us on backdoored nuts, plus there are many strong hands that villain can have (99,88,77, JJ+, 56s, JT, K-high flush to name a few). Similarly, value betting Q8o on an ATJ59 board is almost like stealing the proverbial candy from a baby while trying to do the same with 89 on a 5627J board will be considerably more difficult.
Blockers
When we talk about blockers we usually refer to the decreased probability of certain card or holding in villain's range based on the fact that said card is in our hand. What we often fail to take into account is the fact that board is just as good - if not better - at blocking hands as our hole cards. One of the most obvious and also most valuable examples is the situation when a board with a possible flush draw includes the Ace of that flush-draw color.
An Ac2h5c board will block some amount of flush-draw combos in villain's range simply due to the fact that AX hands are among the most popular preflop holdings. Sometimes this decrease in probability will be extremely severe. Nitty UTG open raiser can have plenty of flush draws on a Jc2h5c board and virtually no flush draw combos on Ac2h5c.
Turn blockers can expose dishonest lines fairly easily. The most obvious example of that is Ace pairing the board on the turn and causing flop cbettor to slow down because the hand he was representing with said cbetsuddenly got far less likely. In a similar way, a second highest flop card pairing the board on the turn can inform us that range of the flop caller will be more draw-heavy since it can now include a lot less second-pair type hands etc.
Absolute and Relative Hand Strength
One of the biggest mistakes recreational players (and even less experienced regulars) make is getting married to the absolute strength of their hand no matter the flop texture. Maybe 'A rose by any other name would smell as sweet' but flopping a top pair with AhKh on a Ac4s9d board definitely feels a lot better than making a top pair with Jh9c on a 9s7s6h. Our relative hand strength is usually much more important than its absolute strength and the board texture will be the main determinant of said relative strength.
Let's consider a few other examples. You flop a set with 9s9c on 9h3d2c, you have the absolute nuts and the likelihood of losing the hand is very slim. The same set of nines on a 9h8h4d board is still the nuts but get's somewhat tricky to play correctly. Set of nines on JdTd9d is no longer the nuts and figuring out a correct line in that spot can cause you some real headaches.
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